Food: Bean There, Done That

Jelly beans are known for their fruity flavors. But now they're starting to taste like other kinds of candy, too. We investigate (each bag costs $2 to $4): Life Savers jelly beans arrive in classic and pastel flavors, like cotton candy and banana. But our tasters sensed a hint of toothpaste. We prefer the candy rolled up. Starburst beans fared better. They had a nice balance of sweetness. Still, one taster complained that they were "not crunchy enough." Jolly Rancher, in blue raspberry and apple, is slightly tart--but not in a unpleasant way. Our favorite flavor: watermelon. Crayola has a line, too, but "they should stick to crayons." Russell Stover 's beans don't come with any flavor gimmicks. Maybe they should. They taste exactly like gummy bears--especially the red ones.

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