Four Hours in ... Jerusalem

Whether you're on a spiritual journey or just a shopping quest, there'll be something to satisfy you in the Israeli capital.

Western Wall, or Kotel, and take a tunnel tour where they are still excavating artifacts from the Muslim, Hasmonian and Herodian eras (

AT Darna, the best Moroccan restaurant outside Marrakesh. Try the phyllo pastry stuffed with Cornish hen, almonds, sugar and cinnamon. And don't forget to ask about its secret wine cellar.

THROUGH the Damascus Gate and into the Muslim quarter and market. Haggle hard; it's expected. Then enjoy a hookah pipe and a game of shesh-besh (Arabic backgammon) with the locals.

THE Dead Sea scrolls in the Shrine of the Book at Yad Vashem, the recently modernized Holocaust museum, and the 12 Chagall stained-glass windows in the Hadassah University hospital (