Lean Cuisine

To casual observers, his approach may sound a bit extreme. (I, for one, wouldn't care too much if the meal strayed into 400 kcal, for example.) Nakatani insists that he must stick to a strict regimen because some of his customers may be under dietary restrictions. His approach as a chef to perfecting a medically sound menu seems to mirror that of Japanese engineers, whose task is to make smaller and lighter products, such as automobile parts and cell-phone handsets, without losing their features.

I had thoroughly enjoyed the rich but natural taste the chef had skillfully extracted from fresh ingredients. In the kitchen, a team of chefs divide their time between attending to the low-cal course and regular ones, Nakatani says. The process of preparing the low-cal meal is far more intricate and time-consuming as the chefs not only have to weigh each and every single seasoning and piece of food after it is cut, but also cool and warm them many times. These convoluted preparations pose a difficult problem in logistics.

Boeuf D'Or's  "chisyoku" course is 12,000 yen ($112) including taxes and services. (Reservations are recommended at least four days in advance.) The restaurant also offers a "special luxurious dinner" featuring Paris cuisine (15,000 yen) and a winter dinner course (11,550 yen). It's your call.

© 2008