Globalization’s First Outpost
The historic Dutch capital of Amsterdam still retains its Old World grandeur. Here's how to maximize your visit to one of Europe's most walkable cities.
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The Dutch know citymaking. Their historic capital, Amsterdam, is a product of 17th-century merchant capitalism, widely considered to be the first age of globalization, and its structure was heavily influenced by Europe's trade with the wider world. The concentric ring of canals that make up the old city are extensions of the routes that led to China, India, and the southern tip of Africa. Mokum (the Yiddish nickname for the city) has managed to remain accessible even as it has modernized. An efficient tram system links peripheral neighborhoods to the core around Central Station, and because of its relatively small size, it is one of the most walkable capitals in Europe.
Touring: A beguiling warren of narrow lanes, canals, and tiny bridges, Amsterdam is perfect for a meandering stroll. For the complete tour, choose from two options: bicycle or boat. Almost everyone rides a bike in Amsterdam, and renting one is easy. The city is as cycling-friendly as they come, with a network of designated lanes and parking, and the old prewar-style bicycles that dominate the lanes will take you back to another time. Mac Bike can put you in the saddle at any one of their numerous locations.
The Netherlands' capital is a watery place, nestled well below sea level, and touring by water provides a great way to view the rows of 17th-century canal-side homes and warehouses. Forgo the cumbersome cruise-boat tours that crowd the major waterways and take a more pleasant, personalized journey through the backwaters. The St. Nicolaas Boat Club is a little-known gem that offers daily tours on their small fleet of quaint, authentically Dutch canal boats. Bring a picnic and a bottle of wine, and see one of the most beautiful European cities from its most unique vantage point. For the pleasure, your ship captain will accept donations at the end of your voyage, and tours can be arranged only by visiting Boom Chicago, a comedy club and bar in the Leidseplein square.
Museums: Amsterdam has almost as many museums as bicycles. Seeing as how the national Rijksmuseum is still in the long slumber of its renovation, the Van Gogh Museum is the best major art gallery to spend time in. The museum houses some of the best-known works by Vincent and his contemporaries, and a separate building reserved for special exhibitions has a reputation for hosting provocative exhibitions that stretch well beyond the thematic confines of the Netherlands' most famous and tormented artist.
If you haven't read "The Diary of Anne Frank" since secondary school, then spend some time with the book on the way over. Walking through the empty rooms at the Anne Frank House will bring to life the families that hid behind the secret bookcase when Hitler occupied Amsterdam. Especially since its 1999 extension into a new, adjacent building, the museum tells a powerful, human story about the Holocaust. Nearby is the heart of the Jordaan, at one time a rough-and-tumble Jewish and immigrant neighborhood at the edge of the city proper; it's now a trendy, bourgeois area of bars and restaurants.
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