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Globalization’s First Outpost
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Markets: The Jordaan remained a working-class enclave late into the 20th century. A statue in the neighborhood's Noordermarkt pays tribute to the labor riots that occurred there during the Depression, and the square now hosts one of the city's finest open-air food and flea markets. While smaller than the more famous Albert Cuyp market, you'll find local shoppers and tourists crowding the rows of bakers, cheese makers, and green grocers. Street musicians play at nearly every turn, and on the far side of the square you can peruse a menagerie of second-hand treasures, from books to house wares.
The Netherlands lays claim to one of the more famous, if short-lived, economic bubbles in history: tulipmania. In the early 17th century, rare tulip bulbs traded on local stock exchanges at values that reached multiples of the average person's yearly salary. Nowadays you can purchase a bouquet for less than ten euros at the floating Bloemenmarkt off Muntplein square.
Shopping: The Dutch are known for their simple yet witty design sensibility, and two of the most forward-thinking design galleries carry a range of furniture, lighting, and other curiosities. Droog is one of the country's best-known showcases for innovative designers. Their flagship store in the old center is more museum than retail outlet. And without the same hallowed austerity, Frozen Fountain is a large, two-storey design house packed with all that Dutch design has to offer.
Drinks: Whether you're in the mood for a relaxing drink or a quick pick-me-up, Amsterdam doesn't lack for atmospheric cafes and bars. 't Blauwe Theehuise is an endearing hangout, serving alcohol, coffee, and, of course, tea. Located in the little circular blue building at the center of Vondel Park, perhaps the most beloved green space in all of Amsterdam, the outdoor patio and balcony seating allows for an enjoyable respite, and the city's resident parakeets can be heard chattering away in the trees above.
Down a small back alley behind Dam Square is an antiquated jenever bar known as Wynand Fockink, an original 17th-century distillery and tasting room. Jenever, also known as Dutch gin, is a traditional, locally made alcohol, and this 300-year-old establishment is a fitting place to experience the spirit for the first time. Like Champagne, authentic jenever is the provenance of the Netherlands and Belgium. When the bartender sets the pretty glasses on the counter and fills them to the brim, it's customary to lean forward and take a sip.
© 2008
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