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How to Vacation Like a Movie Star

Who says L.A. has no culture? Our correspondent's picks for enjoying sun-drenched Southern California.

 

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People tell me all the time how much they hate L.A. When I ask why, they cite our unsightly urban sprawl and a lack of culture. I can't deny we spend too many hours on clogged freeways. But a lack of culture? To these people, I say, come see the Los Angeles I know, where culture comes in unexpected ways. Oh yeah, and while the Midwest and East Coast are still braving ice storms, we here in Southern California are dining al fresco and sailing along the coast under cloudless skies.

Stay: Live like a rock star at the Hotel Bel-Air (http://www.hotelbelair.com/), where a typical day on the sun-mottled patio restaurant brings sightings of real rock stars, legends like Nancy Reagan and international glitterati. Bungalows with private patios and French country furnishings are tucked among the über-verdant foliage and old-growth trees in this exclusive residential Bel-Air neighborhood. Rates from $395.

The Huntley Hotel (thehuntleyhotel.com) in Santa Monica towers over the Pacific with views of the landmark Santa Monica Pier and its rainbow-colored Ferris wheel. Rooms were recently renovated in midcentury swank but with modern touches like flat-screen TVs and marble baths. One of the city's hottest hotel bars, the Penthouse, sparks a party each night 18 floors above the coastline with views that do it justice. Rates from $350.

Eats: The vaunted Michelin guide recently bestowed a star on Ortolan (ortolanrestaurant.com), an opulent and exquisite restaurant serving modern French fare by superchef Christophe Eme. The cream-colored dining room, with its deeply tufted banquettes, wide-plank oak floors and array of crystal chandeliers is intimate and romantic, and oh-so-beyond the typical L.A. scene--even though it's in the heart of West Hollywood. Try my favorite, the roasted monkfish with chorizo, lemon confit, artichoke and baby arugula for $39.

Don't be put off by the beauty crowd that gathers daily for a seat at Il Pastaio (giacominodrago.com), Beverly Hills's most popular outdoor trattoria. Angelinos don't flock here for the people-watching (though it's formidable) but the food: tender pastas, flavorful risottos and the best panna cotta on Earth. Get here before noon or be prepared to wait at least an hour.

Float: Learn to sail, kayak, row or windsurf at the UCLA Marina Aquatic Center (e-mail: MAC@recreation.ucla.edu) in Marina del Rey. Or, if you already know how, just rent a boat for the afternoon. There are group, private and kids' lessons. And at the end of the day, bring something to barbeque on the beach as you watch the sun set.

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