A Work in Progress

NEWSWEEK

Published Nov 2, 2009

From the magazine issue dated Nov 9, 2009

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There are few tourist disappointments that rival a historical treasure surrounded by scaffolding. But at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain's northwestern Galicia region—the finish line to the famous Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trail—the scaffolding only enhances the treasure. Visitors are invited to explore the six-meter-tall riggings, erected for restoration work, for a unique view of the Portico of Glory, the cathedral's 12th-century, sculptured entranceway.

Following a video presentation in the crypt, guides lead hard-hat-wearing groups up to a close encounter with the sculptures. They see 24 elderly musicians hovering like a rainbow over the central scene of Christ and the evangelists. Each musician holds a different instrument; at the apex, two elders play something resembling a giant guitar. Already these sculptures have improved our knowledge of medieval music, allowing scholars to reproduce the instruments featured. The guided tours, four per day, are given in English, Spanish, and the regional language, Galego. Visitors must be at least 12 years old and wear sturdy shoes to climb the scaffolding (fundacionbarrie.org).

There are also guided tours of the cathedral's rooftop, where in medieval times pilgrims used to congregate to rest and to burn their dirty clothes at the Cross of Rags. For €10, it also affords visitors one of the finest views of the city (archicompostela.org).

—Mike Elkin