Mr. Lam Rio de Janeiro

When Brazilian mogul Eike Batista set out to staff his new Chinese eatery, he wanted the country's top cooks. But his partner, renowned chef Sik Chung Lam, persuaded him to call in ringers from Asia. Now they're running Brazil's finest—and most authentic—Chinese restaurant.

Ambience: With twin giant terra-cotta Xian-dynasty warriors flanking the entrance, a lofty ceiling and understated crème décor, the main salon resembles a museum gallery. For a tryst, book a table on the mezzanine floor with plush red curtains.

Food: If the seven-page menu leaves you dazed, go for one of three tasting menus. The feast kicks off with a suite of kill-me-softly starters—most notably "Sqwab With Lettuce," a build-it-yourself treat of minced chicken, fried collard greens and spiced cashews stuffed into a crisp shell of iceberg lettuce. For the adventurous, there's a fully pedigreed Peking duck ($50).

Wine list: The selection spans both the Old and New worlds. If you don't feel up to a Château Mouton Rothschild ($905) there are plenty of down-to-earth wines from Australia, Spain and Chile.

Dessert: Temptations range from the sensible (tropical-fruit mix) to the surreal (mango mousse with a banana coulis, custard cream and chocolate sauce). Chase with a stiff Brazilian espresso.
-Mac Margolis

© 2007