Travel: New Orleans Needs You

I felt my chest tighten as we approached our landing in New Orleans. Would it feel sad, like going back to your old house after a parent has died? Immediately, we chose to deal with lumps in our throats in a time-honored New Orleans way, flipping the radio to jazz, WWOZ, 90.7, and heading directly to Harbor Seafood ( 504-443-6454 ), not five minutes from the airport. Pulling into the parking lot at 11 a.m., you can already smell the spicy shellfish boil. Soon, an adorable server sets down a platter of bright red crawfish, saying: "Here you go, hon. Party on!" Catching her spirit, we begin the quest for the perfect po' boy, a hollowed-out loaf stuffed with fried oysters, shrimp or catfish that you order "dressed" with the works.

Coming to New Orleans six months after Katrina, all your senses are alert. You do not miss one roof slung with a blue FEMA tarp, or the fresh plywood slapped on house fronts like Band-Aids, or signs promising we'll be open soon. Is it OK to try to have fun in this place? Shouldn't I be clearing rubble or swinging a hammer? I asked that question of lots of locals, and the answer was unanimous: just being here matters. "We need y'all to come down and see that we're worth saving," said a bartender.

As it has forever been in New Orleans, having fun is not hard to do. The music is back, in the streets and clubs like Snug Harbor ( 504-949-0696 ) and Cafe Brasil ( 504-949-0851 ).

Classics--Galatoire's, Antoine's and Acme Oyster House in the Quarter--are back. Others--Brennan's, Commander's Palace--promise to reopen by Jazz Fest, April 28 to 30 and May 5 to 7 ( nojazzfest.com ), where Fats Domino, rescued from the roof of his bright yellow Lower Ninth Ward house, promises to perform.

Restaurants resonate warmth, from the funky Mother's ( 504-523-9656 ), where slabs of country ham weigh down flaky biscuits, to the Cafe du Monde in the French Market (sure, it's touristy, but where else can you find a perfect beignet?). Everyone you meet has a story they need to tell--of loss and survival--heartfelt and personal. It's our job to listen.

Most hotels are up and running. The beautiful Windsor Court ( www.windsorcourthotel ) donates rooms to Habitat for Humanity volunteers, and offers special Samaritan Sojourn packages to encourage tourists. For post-Katrina status of hotels, and other vitals, check out neworleansonline.com .