New Secrets for Youthful Skin

Alpha hydroxy acids work in a simi-lar fashion, removing the top layer of cells and stimulating collagen production to smooth skin. They're generally less irritating than topical antioxidants but don't penetrate the skin as deeply. "They may not have as dramatic an impact on how the skin behaves, but they're great for a Band-Aid refresher look," says Dr. Richard Glogau, a San Francisco dermatologist.

Peptide products may also minimize wrinkles by stimulating collagen production. Dermatologists cite brands like StriVectin, Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum and Estée Lauder Perfectionist. But they stress that, as with other cosmeceuticals, data on the effects of these products are limited, as clinical trials are not required.

ACNE TREATMENTS: Topical retinoids calm down breakouts of adult acne, which can be triggered by stress and hormonal fluctuations in those genetically prone to pimples. Topical antimicrobials, like benzoyl peroxide, and antibiotics are other options; a dermatologist can help you decide what would work best for you.

SPOT REMOVERS: To specifically target "sun spots" and even out skin color, dermatologists recommend products with hydroquinone, which gradually bleaches the skin. Side effects include redness and irritation. Avoid these products if you're pregnant because they can hurt a developing fetus.

DERMABRASION AND LASERS: For more-dramatic results, you'll need to see a dermatologist. One of the most popular procedures, microdermabrasion, essentially sands off the skin's surface to remove dead cells. The treatments, which start at about $200 per session, often need to be repeated several times for noticeable and lasting results.

Laser skin resurfacing can also minimize fine lines, especially around the mouth and eyes, and treat uneven pigmentation. It can cost hundreds of dollars per session, and usually require return visits. Long-term studies of safety and effectiveness aren't yet available.