Shell We Eat?

MARYLAND STEAMED CRABS

If you want to try steaming crabs yourself, it's easy. You'll need live hard crabs, available in-season in Atlantic states from New Jersey to Florida and in Louisiana and Texas on the Gulf coast. Specialty markets in large cities may have them, too. You may also be able to have companies like the Crab Place in Crisfield, Md. ship live crabs to you. The later in the season, the fatter the crabs. Three dozen can feed six to 12 people, depending on your guests' enthusiasm for "picking" the creatures-breaking them apart with hands and mallets, and extracting the meat with their fingers.

3 dozen live hard crabs
3 cups white vinegar
3 cups water or beer
1/2 cup Old Bay seasoning
1/4 cup salt

Mix the liquids with the seasonings. Inside a large, high pot with a tight-fitting lid, place a rack tall enough to keep the liquid from touching the crabs. You do not want them to boil; only barbarians from the Gulf coast boil crabs. Place half the crabs in the pot, remembering that they are still alive, and their claws are weapons. Use tongs or wear rubber gloves. Pour half the seasoned liquid over the crabs. Repeat the process with the remaining crabs. Cover the pot and bring the liquid to a boil. Steam for 25-30 minutes, or until the shells have turned a fiery red. Serve hot or at room temperature, preferably spread on newspapers, with plenty of beer. Extra points for authenticity to those who use the Baltimore Sun, the Annapolis Capital or other Chesapeake region paper.

© 2001