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It also doesn't hurt, of course, that Americans have become more health conscious than ever. The American Dietetic Association reports that vegetarians "have lower morbidity and mortality rates from several chronic degenerative diseases than do nonvegetarians." Soybeans not only give you protein, they're important sources of isoflavones that may help prevent some cancers. Vegetables have always been thought of as being good for you, but what has changed is that they have also become pleasurable to eat. Immigration in recent years has brought to America a wealth of new cuisines, whose aficionados know what to do with veggies. Menus now offer vegetarian options that don't involve a single steamed Brussels sprout--something only nonvegetarians can imagine a vegetarian wanting to eat.

One hundred and fifty years ago, that American original, Henry David Thoreau, had no doubt that "the human race, in its gradual improvement," would stop eating meat. McDonald's has apologized to vegetarians offended by its beef-flavored fries. Maybe the day is not too far off when it will be offering McSoyburgers, even in Peoria. Hold the fries, anyway.

Tharoor, a senior U.N. official, is the author of the forthcoming novel "Riot."

© 2001

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