SPONSORED BY:
A 30-YEAR JOURNEY

Mao to Now

China is thousands of years old but has been made anew in the last three decades, and my family with it.

 
PHOTOS
China's Changing Face

Over the past few decades, China has undergone what is considered to be one of the fastest and most far-reaching national metamorphoses in human history.  A look at the changing face of a nation.

 
 

Email To A Friend

Please fill in the following information and we'll email this link.

Separate multiple addresses with commas

SPONSORED BY
 

My eldest brother was 7 years old when the Communists seized power in China. Our parents, who named him Guangyuan—"Distant Light"—had entrusted him to relatives in Suzhou while they visited America in the 1940s. Papa and Mama expected to be gone only long enough to complete their university degrees, and they didn't want to uproot him. Perhaps they also didn't fully appreciate what was happening to their homeland. Then Mao Zedong marched into Beijing in October 1949, and the world changed. Returning to China became too dangerous.

Guangyuan grew up in the care of our mother's parents in Suzhou, a city celebrated for its elegant gardens where emperors, courtesans and poets once dallied. I was born and raised in the American Midwest, along with two more brothers, and I dreamed of one day meeting the sibling the communists had stolen from our family.

My chance finally came on Jan. 1, 1979, the day Washington and Beijing restored full diplomatic relations after 30 years of hostility. No one could be sure the honeymoon would last, so I wasted no time in getting a visa. On the evening of Feb. 20, I lugged a heavy suitcase (filled with gifts for long-lost relatives) aboard Train 119, heading south from Beijing. Through the gloom and swirling cigarette smoke of a no-frills "hard sleeper" carriage, other passengers peered at me in wonderment. Many of them had never seen an American before. They carried their belongings in cheap travel bags and squares of worn, patched fabric. Some had only old-fashioned cloth slippers to protect their feet from the icy weather. A People's Liberation Army soldier lay snoring in a nearby berth, bundled up in a military greatcoat. It's funny, the things that stick with you; I remember he had sacked out without removing his mud-encrusted combat boots. "Maybe he just got back from Vietnam," someone joked. A border war had broken out less than a week earlier, and thousands of casualties were reported on both sides—tens of thousands would die before it was over—but no one in the carriage seemed to care. Everyone clamored to hear about life in America.

The train took more than 21 hours to cover the 700 miles from Beijing to Suzhou. My brother, then 37, lived on Jade Phoenix Lane with his wife, two daughters and mother-in-law. The 5-year-old began running in circles as soon as she saw me, whooping that Auntie was "a foreigner." Their home was a single rectangular room, divided by a massive wardrobe into two areas, each 12 feet square, and their toilet was a chamber pot. But Guangyuan, a bookish, soft-spoken optimist who worked the graveyard shift at a silk factory for the equivalent of $26 a month, considered himself lucky: his home had a wooden floor, a ceiling overhead and a small courtyard where he could keep a few chickens. His big regret was his loss of the family library during the anti-intellectual rampages of the Red Guards in the Cultural Revolution.

Now Mao was dead, and the strongman reformist Deng Xiaoping had unleashed forces of a different sort. The previous summer, party bosses had invited foreign reporters to a groundbreaking ceremony just across the border from Hong Kong, where I was working as a reporter. Shenzhen had been a tiny fishing village, home to only 17 original families. But Deng chose it to be his laboratory for a vast experiment: Shenzhen would become a quasi-capitalist, export-oriented "Special Economic Zone." Western journalists with me that day looked askance at the patch of mud that was supposed to be China's future. Many thought the idea was a joke. Thirty years later Shenzhen is a metropolis of 12 million people, and still growing fast. The huts have been replaced by rank upon rank of office blocks like the 69-story Shun Hing Plaza, currently the world's seventh tallest building at 1,260 feet. Townspeople say another high-rise is coming soon that will top it by more than 50 feet.

Label

Newsweek Top Stories
Gone Rogue
Gone Rogue

How Sarah Palin hurts the GOP … and America.

The Decade's Best Quotes
The Decade's Best Quotes

NEWSWEEK's 20/10 Project recalls the lines we'll never forget.

Best Celebrity Mugshots
Best Celebrity Mugshots

10 unforgettable arrest photos from the 2000s.

An Evolutionary Edge
An Evolutionary Edge

How grandmas may play favorites.

Discuss

Sponsored by

Member Comments

  • Posted By: MichaelX @ 11/16/2009 4:17:16 PM

    Reading this, all I can see is a sales pitch. Why are the chinese treated the way they are? Could it be they are basically larcenous, and un-trustworthy by nature? Most orientals I have met were. Im sure many are fine human beings, but thrust in situations where it is best to be the heavy rather the the one leaned on is preferred. The minds of the people, and those of the leaders are two different entities. Why cant they see that? Again, the basic instincts that show the true nature of the east.
    Subordination is just a caste system that demeans and demoralizes the citizens. But without it, chinese would run amok, and revert back to the feudal ways, and further drive the race into the ground. China, you will never have the respect of the world.

  • Posted By: clu1984 @ 09/10/2009 11:32:08 PM

    I don't think resentment is the right word to describe her views towards the Chinese communist, because it is the shame and the anger that we (as Chinese grow up outside of China) have to carry each day of our lives. It is a burden, it is the anger and it is a thing that cannot be solved because the actions and decisions are made by the Chinese communist government are difficult to be understood by people who grow up outside of China. They are absolutely wrong, but you have no place to defend your rights or to prove them wrong. It is a desperation and frustration towards the Chinese communist government.

  • Posted By: jordan c. fan @ 08/06/2009 6:30:59 AM

    Mao and His Communism. PART 1.

    By: Jordan C. Fan, Prophet of Environment.

    With the opening of the year 2008 Olympic in Beijing, the ???Cold War??? had ended. China & its Communism political ideology has successfully emerge as the winner of this highly destructive war. Tens of millions of lives have been lost & trillions of dollars of property damages all due to American aggression. Historically, East Asia has always been the habitats for Asian survival and development. Americans ivolvements in these area during the Cold War are obviously aggression. To fully understand the history of the 20th century or beyond, we must understand the political system in China.

    There were little or no ???politic??? before the American Revolution for their independence from England in 1776. Monarchies as ???political??? leaders or alternatives were without political ideologies but the personalities of those monarchs which would dictate their government policies. We should all agree that politics or ideological difference of governments are really myths or deceptions. Its sole purpose is to overthrow or replace an existing government or political party. After such political transformations were completed, politic in those nations should become obsolete. As its replacements, there should only be constant but gradual improvements of the existing ???political??? framework to fit the need of their citizens. Frequent elections at all levels will be extremely wasteful, time consuming & inefficient.

    The United States used its own politic ideology as a deception during the Cold War to diverge attentions from its internal unrest since its Civil War. The process of mandatory & scheduled political changes even through elections are unnecessary because they always create instabilities. Currently, China is totally surrounded enemies from all direction and all over the world. They will attack China immediately if a weakness is found. I as Prophet of Environment can certainly help and defend China to win but all Chinese every where should also help and cooperate with the Chinese government. The first thing they need to do is stop all complains, forget the unpleasant past experience, and embrace Chinese Communism 100%. There should be no rooms left for foreigners to criticize the Chinese government. In short, all Chinese must reject all foreign criticisms of Chinese government or Communism.

Reply

Report Abuse

Enter comments if any for reporting abuse

My Take

Customize the NEWSWEEK homepage
to feature your favorite columnists.

Customize Now