Sweet Valentine

There's no time like Valentine's Day for a full-immersion chocolate experience. And for couples in love, there's no better place to indulge than Perugia, the Italian city seeking to earn the mantle of chocolate capital of the world. It's impossible to go more than a few blocks without encountering the look, smell, taste or feel of the good stuff.

Perugina's Chocolate Museum recounts the manufacture of chocolate from cocoa fruit to packaging, and includes a factory tour where visitors can watch the production of handcrafted Baci chocolates, first introduced on Valentine's Day, 1922. The Chocolate School, tucked inside, offers courses on filling truffles with lemon liqueur and decorating sculptures, all taught by a certified chocolate maestro (€30 to €100; www.perugina.it).

Across town, Perugia's Beauty Palace offers sweet spa treatments, including cocoa-butter massage, chocolate baths and chocolate-based aromatherapies (beautypalace .it). Lovers should stay at the splendid Brufani Palace, which boasts its own chocolatier—a chocolate sommelier—in the gourmet Collins Restaurant, where desserts include fluffy mousse and chocolate tiramisu (brufanipalace .com). True chocoholics may prefer the Etruscan Chocohotel, the world's first lodging dedicated to the mighty cocoa bean, decorated with sculptures and carvings made entirely of chocolate (chocohotel .it), to guarantee sweet dreams.

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