FOOD: ITALIAN FOR SUSHI

Sushi lovers on the left and right coasts are angling for a new kind of raw fish. Forget about wasabi-spiced slivers of yellowtail and soy-drenched toro; the buzz now is on crudo. Italian for "raw," crudo is spiked with robust Mediterranean flavors of garlic, citrus, tomato and fresh olive oil. Il Grano (Los Angeles; 310-477-7886) serves Maine scallops with candied lemon peel, and snapper with chard and poppy-seed dressing. Esca (New York; 212-564-7272), where crudo got its start in the United States, offers Spanish mackerel with muscat-steeped golden raisins. Seablue (Las Vegas; 702-891-3486) dishes out yellowtail "jack" with spicy shiitake mushrooms and ponzu sauce. And at Oliveto (Oakland, Calif.; 510-547-5356), try the halibut with black truffles, Meyer lemon vinaigrette and bottarga. No chopsticks required.

FOOD: ITALIAN FOR SUSHI | News