Food: Pizza Problems

To an American, especially one who suffered through this winter, living in southern Italy sounds nice. But for the young men who train in Naples to become pizzaioli--professionals certified to make pizza in the original style of the Neapolitans--staying at home holds little allure. So little, in fact, that they're moving north, or abroad, and abandoning the traditions they learn--or just not learning them in the first place.

In Italy, pizzaioli are licensed artisans, and men--women aren't allowed--go through an intense four-week certification. They must know which wood to use in the ovens, and they have to memorize historical details about the way dough is kneaded, mixed and allowed to rise. Modern pizza-making tools used elsewhere make the job much simpler.