Food: Vegas For Gourmets

In the past decade, Las Vegas has been flooded with brand-name chefs. But few of their restaurants have become destinations in their own right. Now that's changing. At the highest end, two French chefs have arrived with restaurants that are showcases for great food. Last fall, the world's most celebrated chef, Joël Robuchon, opened his only fine-dining establishment in the United States: Joël Robuchon at the Mansion, at the MGM Grand ( mgmgrand .com ). The 16-course tasting menu ($360 before wines, service or taxes) is an astonishing experience. L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon next door offers a casual barlike atmosphere with lower prices. Robuchon's famous truffle mashed potatoes ($50 for two people) are on the menu, as are delectable fried langoustines ($25), a spicy steak tartare ($38) and a decadent foie gras burger ($25).

But the best restaurant in Vegas is the newest, Guy Savoy at Caesars Palace ( harrahs .com ). The tasting menu (seven courses, $290) is an electric mix of flavors, colors and textures. Oysters in ice jelly, zucchini with tempura butter, caviar on a bed of green beans, veal done five different ways. These two chefs have moved Las Vegas into a new era.

--Fareed Zakaria