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William Underhill

By William Underhill

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Britain's best-loved celebrity chef, Jamie Oliver, recently opened his first restaurant outside London. The champion of high-quality cooking for all drew acclaim from the critics and lengthy queues of would-be diners.

Setting: In keeping with his democratic tendencies, Oliver has sited his latest enterprise away from the modish eateries of the city center but still within easy strolling distance of Oxford's must-see monuments.

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Ambience: Famous for his love of simple cooking, Oliver allows more exuberance when it comes to décor, fusing some familiar Italian details—like dried meat slung above the bar—with more contemporary flourishes, including bright red metal chairs and empty picture frames on the walls.

Food: Hefty portions and authentic ingredients, including dry-cured meat from Milan and organic salmon from the Shetlands. But this is Italian with a modern twist. Oliver adds a hint of sophistication to the Bakewell tart, a so-traditional English dessert made with eggs, jams and almonds; buffalo burger comes with Asiago cheese.

Drink: The drinks list may be short, but it's definitely ecofriendly and even healthful. Start with a Rossini—prosecco and fresh strawberries—before moving on to the Sangiovese Terre di Chieti Abruzzo. Organic, of course.

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