Sandy Seafood

No more need for a trip to the seaside for a fresh shrimp cocktail. By next year shellfish aficionados will be enjoying tasty shrimp from the most unlikely of origins--Israel's Negev Desert. Scientists have discovered that the Negev's thermal underground waters, though far less salty than the sea, provide the ideal environment for growing shrimp. The shellfish won't be readily available in their homeland, however--many of Israel's top restaurants won't serve crustaceans, which are not kosher. Instead, most of the shrimp will head across the seas for export. But the crucial question remains: how do they taste? "Consistently good," says Yoram Nitzan, chef at Moul Yam, a stylish Tel Aviv seafood restaurant. "The only problem is--that sea aroma is missing." Try an extra pinch of salt?