The man encountered the predator in an area known as the "shark bite capital of the world."
"I just jumped on my board…sitting there for a little while trying to get a wave in and thinking that next bite was about to come," said Mike Bruton, 29, who escaped without injury.
The victim was reportedly shaken,but unharmed. "She screamed so loud," a witness said. "I paddled over to her slowly and made her come toward me."
The shark bit a large chunk out of the surfer's board as he hit the waves during sunset, forcing him to swim to shore to safety.
The surfer said it was the "craziest thing to have happened to me in my life."
The 36-year-old victim, a former lifeguard, was reportedly in a stable condition after surgery.
The 8-foot attacker was later identified as a great white shark.
"Hat's off to him, he collected me really well."
The shark was said to be four meters long.
Today the best surf spots in the U.S. can be as crowded as rush hour on Interstate 405, the notoriously congested freeway that runs through Los Angeles.
For nearly the last half-century, a group of California surfers known as the Bay Boys have jealously protected access to the waves of Lunada Bay with verbal abuse, threats and vandalism, sometimes resorting to violence.
The footage is of a World Surf League event in Nazar.
When the teenager surfer was attacked by a shark and lost her arm, she not only survived-she thrived.